noob q's

[BadgerType]

i bought a whole bunch of used equipment and i need some input before i start my final install.

~i plan to install my bottle in my cabin brhind the passengers seat. i have a batt relocation and i fear mounting it in my trunk with my batt.

~the orginal plan was to run a dry kit using a hole on my cai, but since i just got a nos fogger thing and another solenoid, should i spend some more money to make it a wet kit?

~how far away should i drill my hole in my intake? the closer means more nitrous in the engine, but leads to detonation. further away leads to better atomization but less power. any comment?

~the original wiring is for a WOT switch. but i fell it would be easier, safer and more practical for me to install a momentary switch instead. i have an auto with a bad reputaion for blowing up.

~after im done building my engine, this kit will be used as a intercooler sprayer, except im not pay 300 for that sprayer bar. any suggestions on how to go abt doing this?

~would yall recommend any NECESSARY gauges or safety features that i might want to look into?

~this will be used once a week for the next 2 yrs untill my engine is finshed. any care tips to keep the kit and the car from blowing up before that date?

Thanks

Badger

[bleu]

i bought a whole bunch of used equipment and i need some input before i start my final install.

1~i plan to install my bottle in my cabin brhind the passengers seat. i have a batt relocation and i fear mounting it in my trunk with my batt.

2~the orginal plan was to run a dry kit using a hole on my cai, but since i just got a nos fogger thing and another solenoid, should i spend some more money to make it a wet kit?

3~how far away should i drill my hole in my intake? the closer means more nitrous in the engine, but leads to detonation. further away leads to better atomization but less power. any comment?

4~the original wiring is for a WOT switch. but i fell it would be easier, safer and more practical for me to install a momentary switch instead. i have an auto with a bad reputaion for blowing up.

5~after im done building my engine, this kit will be used as a intercooler sprayer, except im not pay 300 for that sprayer bar. any suggestions on how to go abt doing this?

6~would yall recommend any NECESSARY gauges or safety features that i might want to look into?

7~this will be used once a week for the next 2 yrs untill my engine is finshed. any care tips to keep the kit and the car from blowing up before that date?

Thanks

Badger


1. My NX kit was in my Elise right next to the battery. There were no issues. The Elise does have a battery cover (plastic). If you ensure that the battery does not leak (get an optima they are lighter anyway) and that both are sufficently strapped in place.



2. I prefer wet. Easy to install and remove if you decide to sell the car. I wrecked my Lotus (rolled it even) and was able to pull out my wet kit in about 5-10 minutes and I got every single part. A dry kit would be a little harder. Since it seems that you are not going to put a huge shot into the stock engine, wet is where I would go if I were you.


3. Go with the directions. If you don't have any you can download from the manufacture's website. I think the standard is three inches from the throttle body. That's what I did with my kit. I had zero issues with the location.



4. WOT switch is very safe. You should have an activation switch and a WOT switch. This is of course related to the wet kit. Try not to let your system spray when you are not at WOT or when you are below 2500 RPMs.



5. How to get a bar cheaper? I am sure someone on this site would sell one cheaper. You might find a used one as well. I might not buy a used solenoid, but a bar doesn't really get worn out.



6. Pressure gauge/regulator combined with a heater. NOS has a sweet one right now. You can run the guage to the cockpit. I'd also look seriously at a purge kit. Not for the show really, but to ensure repeatable runs. I had an issue with my kit sorta like this. If I had not used the spray in a week or so. I would go open the bottle, then when I did my first run. It would bog and then fog. It would give me the xtra fuel but I would eat air for the first second, then the Nitrous would make it to the engine (following the air) and boom, off I was.

7. see my comment about WOT and 2500 RPMS. also, on stock internals set a limit now before you are on the juice that you will not take your shot above. In the Lotus it was 75. I ran a 35 and that was absolutely nuts. Car did zero to 60 in 4.7 stock, then I added 20% HP on AO48 tires.


Trevor

[BadgerType]

1. My NX kit was in my Elise right next to the battery. There were no issues. The Elise does have a battery cover (plastic). If you ensure that the battery does not leak (get an optima they are lighter anyway) and that both are sufficently strapped in place.



2. I prefer wet. Easy to install and remove if you decide to sell the car. I wrecked my Lotus (rolled it even) and was able to pull out my wet kit in about 5-10 minutes and I got every single part. A dry kit would be a little harder. Since it seems that you are not going to put a huge shot into the stock engine, wet is where I would go if I were you.


3. Go with the directions. If you don't have any you can download from the manufacture's website. I think the standard is three inches from the throttle body. That's what I did with my kit. I had zero issues with the location.



4. WOT switch is very safe. You should have an activation switch and a WOT switch. This is of course related to the wet kit. Try not to let your system spray when you are not at WOT or when you are below 2500 RPMs.



5. How to get a bar cheaper? I am sure someone on this site would sell one cheaper. You might find a used one as well. I might not buy a used solenoid, but a bar doesn't really get worn out.



6. Pressure gauge/regulator combined with a heater. NOS has a sweet one right now. You can run the guage to the cockpit. I'd also look seriously at a purge kit. Not for the show really, but to ensure repeatable runs. I had an issue with my kit sorta like this. If I had not used the spray in a week or so. I would go open the bottle, then when I did my first run. It would bog and then fog. It would give me the xtra fuel but I would eat air for the first second, then the Nitrous would make it to the engine (following the air) and boom, off I was.

7. see my comment about WOT and 2500 RPMS. also, on stock internals set a limit now before you are on the juice that you will not take your shot above. In the Lotus it was 75. I ran a 35 and that was absolutely nuts. Car did zero to 60 in 4.7 stock, then I added 20% HP on AO48 tires.


Trevor

1. i have a optima redtop and trust me its not light, lol. is there any real downside to mount t in the cabin, besides the risk of it rupturing and freezing my car. my trunk is very cramped and would not be an ideal place due to how close the batt and tank would be.
2. how common is fuel puddling? i would have figured dry would be simpler
3. i need some directions cause the kit didnot come with one. would it be complicated with multiple diffrent companies?
4. wot switch seems very safe, but i want to avoid shifting while under the juice. that will cause alot of problems to my auto
5. well the actual question was meant to be how do yall mount the dry nossle so it could spray on the intercooler?
6. i was gonna get a pressure gauge to put on the bottle and a fuel would be needed if i go wet. i have a purge kit by the solenoids. i dont want to spend a whole lot more money on this kit. a heater and nitrous gauge are optional unless i get one for cheap.

Thanks Bleu... agian

[BadgerType]

bump

[bleu]

1. i have a optima redtop and trust me its not light, lol. is there any real downside to mount t in the cabin, besides the risk of it rupturing and freezing my car. my trunk is very cramped and would not be an ideal place due to how close the batt and tank would be.
2. how common is fuel puddling? i would have figured dry would be simpler
3. i need some directions cause the kit didnot come with one. would it be complicated with multiple diffrent companies?
4. wot switch seems very safe, but i want to avoid shifting while under the juice. that will cause alot of problems to my auto
5. well the actual question was meant to be how do yall mount the dry nossle so it could spray on the intercooler?
6. i was gonna get a pressure gauge to put on the bottle and a fuel would be needed if i go wet. i have a purge kit by the solenoids. i dont want to spend a whole lot more money on this kit. a heater and nitrous gauge are optional unless i get one for cheap.


1. I think it is safe enough to mount in the cockpit. Remember, the best repeatability comes when you mount the bottle more than 45 degrees up.

2. I have not experienced puddleing that i know of. Others may have more info.

3. Although I would caution you against combining multiple kits you're a grown person. Do a search on nitrous gone wrong. but if I were to do what you're doing, I would look up the directions from each of the vendor sites of the part that you have. Don't just "figure it out"

4. I can't comment on the auto stuff. someone else?

5. sorry can't help here either.

6. "i was gonna get a pressure gauge to put on the bottle and a fuel would be needed if i go wet." Not sure what you meant here. You do know that you do not need a fuel pressure gauge for a wet kit right? What Also, you don't need a nitrous gauge. I would recommend the NOS heater/pressure gauge combo. I did not get it intially and won't do with out it again. Here's why. You fill your bottle. You use some bottle. Temp stays the same. PV=nRT (trust me it does) since you used NO2, the amount 'n' is reduced. Temperature 'T' stayed the same. Volume (size of tank) stayed the same. Therefore, Pressure 'P' is reduced. now you have less than 950psi in the bottle. Now your jetting could be off but most noticably you are down on boost. less power. Now if you get the heater/gauge I am talking about, as pressure drops, it will trigger the heater and Temp will rise until pressure is back to 950. Now you can use more of that NO2 you payed for. Otherwise, you have to go fill the bottle again. most places insist that the bottle be completely empty (unless they filled it the last time personally) for them to fill it again. I'd say no heater on a bottle will get you about 6 lbs out of a 10lb bottle. With a heater you should get 8 out of 10. It pays for itself pretty fast at a bottle a week or so.


man, I gotta stop writting such long emails. Sorry if I caused any confusment with the Chemistry Lesson.

laters,

Bleu

And remember...

Lotus Elise + AO48 tires + light Snow = Lotus Exige:ops:

[Ashentep]

Since you bought the dry kit, I would find the recommended jetting from NOS for your car and stick with that, so long as you have a fuel pressure regulator that is able to raise fuel pressure via a boost reference signal from the nitrous pressure regulator on the kit you bought.

You've also got the option of spraying through the MAF, depending on how your car reacts to it. Some cars love it, some hate it.

IMO, dry kits are considerably easier to install. You don't have to tap into the fuel lines at all.

As for where to mount the nozzle, if you're spraying through the MAF, go a few inches before the MAF, if you're doing after the MAF, using the nitrous pressure regulator, then spray it anywhere after the MAF. Spraying further from the TB can actually improve distribution, raising power and safety, and has been dyno proven.

[BadgerType]

whats is yalls opinion on running the nitrous line outside or inside the car?

[Ashentep]

I ran my line underneath the car, trying to keep it inside the subframe rails as much as possible, and where I couldn't run it in the frame, I tied it to the fuel lines.

I think either way is fine, but a lot of people are against running it inside in case of leaks. Then again, others are against it running outside the car in case it is somehow damaged.

[Nate]

whats is yalls opinion on running the nitrous line outside or inside the car?
either way should be fine, just as long as it makes it from the bottle to the solenoids. I think it would be easier to run it outside the car, but you have to make sure your line does not touch anything hot (exhaust, motor, etc.) Anything hot will melt the inside of the feed line...leaks aren't fun to deal with :)