Direct port Setup Question

[babyboy]

I am going direct port and need to do some drilling.My manifold is plastic and I know i need to be careful when drilling.The question is what is the best drill technics to use when drilling. What type of bit.I don't plain on removing the manifold so i will need some advice on this.Again any help would be nice.Photos of installed direct port systems will be great.Prefer hard plastic style manifolds but any good photo or diy instructions will help.Thanks

[Mustang Boy]

i hate to say it but your gonna have to take the intake off otherwise u will have plastic shavings in the intake which would get in the cylinders and could mess things up. as for how to do it i think any bit can drill through plastic pretty easily so that wont be a problem just make sure all of the hole r the same distance from the port. once u drill the hole just tap it and make sure its clean and put the nozzles in and hook everything up and you should be good to go.

[babyboy]

Justin,Thanks for the information. Taking off my manifold is not as cut and dry as most manifolds. Just removing all the electronics and the manifold will be a day job itself. Also i was told that hard plastic does not have the same effort as cast intakes. I found a sight that someone used a special tool that allows straight tap without dismantle.Let me know if you have anything on this.Thanks again

[The Racer's Edge]

I have to agree with Mustang Boy, if you donot take off the intake i feal you will be making a bad mistake. Don't try to take a short cut when installing your direct port, it could lead to a very bad day:crybaby: . How ever if you take the extra time to do the install correctly you will be much happier with the results. Also the intake you are using is plastic, it wouldn't be a bad idea to use "Locktite" on the threads of the nozzles (helps keep everthing in place):specool:

[babyboy]

hey,
Thanks guys for your help. I think i will be taking off the manifold.
Anyone have a DIY for a 2004 BMW 530i.
I have been looking everywhere. Anyway i will take my time i was just concern because it is not like my camaro and other cars. Too many electronical connections. And i don't know this car as well as the camaro and my other sleeper.

Well wish me luck and i will be sure to post some photos.

[Nate]

you should, or have someone, take pictures of every single step. each component you disconnect, take a picture before and after. that way you can look at your pictures to see where things went. If there's no DIY, make one out of those pictures. I'm sure it would help someone in need of a DIY. Good luck with it :thumb_yello:

[The Racer's Edge]

If there are alot of electrical connections and hoses you could get yourself some touch up paints and dot color on both ends before you disconnect them. Therefor when you reconnect everything, just connect the dots!
(you might need to get 2 or 3 colors for all of the connections but remember you can use 1,2 or 3 dots fore each, mix colors too. 2red 1 yellow etc..):wiggle:

[conley1000000]

Maybe look around in a junkyard for a wrecked BMW with the same intake on it and do your drilling on it, then swap'm!

[babyboy]

Just a few photos of what i have done.
Opinions please and be nice.
I have more done than i am posting but more will come.
Still need some help with switch. I thought about just connecting to fuse for my switch power and wiring into the ecu wires to keep lines short for the TPS signal. Anyone tried this on a electric throttle postion sensor
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4412/1003199mb3.th.jpg (http://img513.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003199mb3.jpg)


Sorry for the one photo but this site has me limited to the size of photos so i will have to work on that later

[nxcoupe]

I have drilled and tapped plastic before, it's not that hard. Make sure to read on the tap what size drill it requires, then drill the hole using a slow drill speed, and keep straight, steady application as you are drilling. Tap slowly, clean the hole with brake clean and use loctite on the threads as you screw it in. Also, don't tighten very tight, as you can crack the plastic. Let the loctite hold it in.

[babyboy]

I have drilled and tapped plastic before, it's not that hard. Make sure to read on the tap what size drill it requires, then drill the hole using a slow drill speed, and keep straight, steady application as you are drilling. Tap slowly, clean the hole with brake clean and use loctite on the threads as you screw it in. Also, don't tighten very tight, as you can crack the plastic. Let the loctite hold it in.


If you take a closer look at the photo you will see i have already done this part.
What is taking so long is the fuel rail/injectors will not seal. I changed the o ring and retainer clips. It seams everytime a make an adjustment to fix one then another is leaking. I am so upset but still making adjustments to seal the rail and injectors. I may just order new injectors and be done with it. But still that may not be the problem. I was wondering if the fuel rail harness was not connected it will not regulate the pressure and cause the burst. I just left it undone because it is a pain in the butt to keep removing everything.
If you know any info about this please don't hesitate to explain.

I am stuck in the garage until i can get up and running.

Rito

[The Racer's Edge]

Hey if you are looking to fire the system off useing your TPS sensor, Nitrous Express makes a TPS voltage sensing swtich part number 15961. It is programable, this makes it easy for installation on any car and I have used this before with much success. It goes for $100, money well spent!! It is available on my website
www.ShopTheRacersEdge.com
or you can call me directly at 631-774-8297 between 9am-9pm est
Tim
:rockon:

[hammered54]

you could use greese on the drill to catch the shaving's, or keep a shop vac. going next to operation, I've found that drilling on plastic doe'snt alway's leave chip's , rather long curl's of plastic which should clean up very ez. as far as any getting in the engine, take out the spark plug's (all) and blow compresed air thru it while turning it over, and if you do miss a tiny bit it's plastic it will burn out in a heart beat, skip the loctight and use what they tell you to use, teflon paste not tape, you'll glue them bad boy's in there you'll never get them out, don't run the tap in all the way it's a pipe thread, fogger should be tight after about 4 turn's no more, be careful and good luck

[babyboy]

you could use greese on the drill to catch the shaving's, or keep a shop vac. going next to operation, I've found that drilling on plastic doe'snt alway's leave chip's , rather long curl's of plastic which should clean up very ez. as far as any getting in the engine, take out the spark plug's (all) and blow compresed air thru it while turning it over, and if you do miss a tiny bit it's plastic it will burn out in a heart beat, skip the loctight and use what they tell you to use, teflon paste not tape, you'll glue them bad boy's in there you'll never get them out, don't run the tap in all the way it's a pipe thread, fogger should be tight after about 4 turn's no more, be careful and good luck

Hey thanks for the advise. I have already finished the project and still fine tuning the setup for the most performance.
Take a look at some of the photos below.

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/3180/1003206ek3.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003206ek3.jpg)

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/8491/1003205ur9.th.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003205ur9.jpg)

http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/4706/1003194li8.th.jpg (http://img45.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1003194li8.jpg)

[hammered54]

look's great, yeah did'nt realize when you posted, direct port is the way to go, just had my manifold plumed for a fogger for the top end, won't be till the end of march till I get to have at it, good luck on the tune