125 Shot????????? How

[03GTSTANG]

ok guys my name is aaron an i am 22 i have always wanted a mustang so when i got mine about 8 months back ......i got to work on it ....the first think nx wet system....jeted 100 shot , but now i am looking to go up to 125. i have herd that i need other stuff to go along with it to help my motor out, so,...... i was thinking progressive nitrous control this means i coule use the 150 jets an have it roll n.....problem dont know a good brand, next, what other stuff do i need to get to run the 125 shot safly? thanks for all the help i have been looking for a all nitrous forum..

[Nate]

Runnin a little late for work so here's a quicky

First, check out this Nitrous Jet Calculator (http://www.ny-trex.com/calculator.php). then check out Ny-Trex (http://www.ny-trex.com) or Nitrous Express (http://www.nitrousexpress.com) for their jet packs and find the jets that you calculated from that calculator.

There's a few other things that need to be done I'm sure (i don't drive a Mustang so maybe a Mustang owner will give you a run down). You'll eventually need to make a trip to the dyno, just to ensure you're not running a lean mixture. we don't like kabooms.

and welcome to the forums :)

[Helmsdini]

You should go down a heat range in plugs if you are going much over a 100 shot, and make sure that your plugs are gapped at about .032-.035, which you have probably already done. Other than that, I would definatly go to a stronger in tank fuel pump (255 LPH) if you havent yet. You also need to watch your timing. Even on the NX kits I like to back mine down 2 degrees for every 50 HP, and then look at the timing marks on the plugs and go from there adding in a little at a time.

Check out my tuning tips on my website under articles, It has alot of good info in it. The nitrous tips are pretty general so they will apply to your wet kit as well.

[Nate]

Helmsdini, feel free to post up some of your tips

[Helmsdini]

Here is the article from my website:

Tuning tips:

My first tip is to read your directions for your kit at least once all the way through before your start. Make sure you fully understand what you are doing and it will prevent a lot of headaches on down the road. Start with a very conservative tune, such as a 75-100 HP shot for V8 engines. Make changes to your system VERY slowly and don’t do anything drastic. If you think you have enough fuel and want to try and lean your mixture out, do it in very small increments. The same can be said with timing. If you want to add some timing, do it slowly and with much caution, checking the tune each and every time. If you do something drastic with a nitrous tune, it is a good possibility you may find yourself calling a tow truck. It simply isn’t worth the risk of losing an engine for an extra tenth in the quarter mile, so stick with conservative tunes.

There are a few things you need to pay close attention to in your fuel system when using this kit. As stated above, the foremost is to make sure that you at least START your tuning with plenty of fuel on tap. Nitrous oxide doesn’t add any power on its own; it simply allows a means for your engine to burn more fuel, thus creating more power. That is why, unless combined with a fuel, nitrous oxide will not combust. Some of you have heard the saying “lean is mean”. This is true as far as tuning goes, and often times going from an overly rich tune to a lean tune will yield a lot of extra horsepower. Tuning from rich to lean is fine, as long as you keep the air/fuel ratio around 12:1 verified by a wide band dyno. What you DON’T want to do is start out too lean. Often times it is fairly easy to tune a nitrous combo lean, but you seldom get a second chance to tune a combo from lean to rich because a lean condition can be absolutely catastrophic to engines. With that said, try to err on the rich side of jetting and tuning until you get a firm grip on what you are doing or you simply don’t care if you toast your motor. A 190 liter or greater intank fuel pump is an absolute NECESITY with this nitrous kit. Adding a secondary fuel pump or a voltage amplifier to your intank fuel pump such as a Kenne-Bell boost a pump is a great idea, and in my opinion a requirement much above a 125 HP shot with this kit. Also make certain you are using the appropriate octane. 92 or the highest available at your gas pump should be fine on shots up to 150 HP. High octane is necessary to prevent pre-ignition of the extremely volatile nitrous/ fuel mixture while on nitrous oxide. On shots above 150 HP a good fuel additive, such as NX’s Chemical-X or race fuel are a good idea.

Timing is the second most important issue to address when tuning with nitrous. Having an overly-aggressive timing curve will destroy your engine just as fast as an overly-lean tune. When the nitrous/ fuel mixture is compressed in your cylinders it is much more volatile than just a regular air/ fuel mixture. As such, it takes very little to ignite the mixture. If the mixture is ignited much before the piston reaches TDC, the piston can be racing to the top of the cylinder and before it reaches the top the combustion stroke occurs. This can bend connecting rods and shatter pistons like glass.

The rule of thumb I like to go by is to retard your timing 2 degrees for every 50 HP of nitrous. To a lot of people this may seem overly conservative, but when dealing with nitrous it is best to be very cautious until you know for certain how much timing you can run and still keep your motor happy. The best way to check this is to learn how to read timing marks on the electrodes of spark plugs. Often times if timing damages your engine it will offer little if any warning. Start with your timing on the cautious side, and then read the timing marks on your plugs and go from there. It is also important to mention that with this dry kit every cylinder may have a slightly different timing mark, so it is important to check all of them.

While on the topic of timing and spark plugs, Id like to discuss spark plug type as this is critical for nitrous oxide use. The biggest problem is using nitrous on platinum plugs because the platinum electrode will cause detonation. If your car has platinum plugs, remove them before attempting to run nitrous oxide. It is also a good idea to bypass the gourmet spark plugs, such as split fire or anything with a funky electrode like that. Simply buy the cheap traditional copper electrode plugs such as autolite, or if you are so inclined you can buy the expensive iridium plugs, as they seem to work fine as well.

Plug gap is also crucial, and the plugs should probably be closed up more than your engine would ordinarily run naturally aspirated. A good rule of thumb is to gap your plugs at .035 as this will generally be fine for nitrous oxide use. If you have time it is a good idea to round the electrode down with a small file as you gap your plugs. By removing the corners of the electrode it prevents hot spots that may lead to detonation. Moving the electrode grounding strap directly over the electrode will lead to a better spark and may be worth a little horsepower.

One of the last facets of spark plugs when using nitrous oxide is heat range. You may have heard this term before but don’t know what it means. In a nutshell, you don’t want your spark plugs to retain very much heat when using nitrous oxide, because the mixture is so volatile that the residual heat may detonate it early. I usually try to go one heat range colder when using nitrous oxide. If you are spraying over a 150 shot, then a good suggestion is to go two heat ranges colder. Sometimes the plugs are too cold for the engine to run on when not on nitrous, and you will know right away if that is the case because the car will run very rich and idle poorly and the plugs will look black and sooty if you remove them. If you are running a very big shot you may just have to use these cold spark plugs at the track only if your car doesn’t like to run on them naturally aspirated. With a little research it isn’t too hard to find colder heat range sparkplugs, as they are generally one number lower on the part number for the sparkplugs. If you have a 5.0 mustang, the best plug chart can be found here at www.corral.net


If you keep your fuel pressure, fuel quality and timing in line you will have many years of good reliable nitrous runs.

Other tips:

Bottle pressure: It is very important that you keep your bottle pressure between 900-1000 PSI. The more bottle pressure, the more nitrous is injected into your motor and as such the leaner the tune. Keeping a constant pressure is a very good idea and its critical to your tune if you are close to the edge. A quality bottle warmer should keep your pressure in check as the bottle is depleted.


Hopefully within the next month ill find time to add alot more articles on there and refine some of the existing stuff.