Sigh.. another issue

[Black96SVT]

So I was told that after the nitrous is hooked up you can test to see if its working by arming it and hitting the WOT button and the solenoids should make a clicking noise.. I hear nothing what so ever.. I dont even think the bottle heater is working, if it is the heat is very slight, bc thats all I felt.

I have the wires hooked to the + side of the battery.. which I have a question about that, those that hooked up their nitrous like this did you just cut part of the wire so the copper strands are hanging and hooking it to the + terminal or did you put the wires in something and then hook it to the battery?

[krazy4]

i bet the switch isn't hooked up correctly or there is no power to the solenoids. recheck everything again and see if you can get it functioning properly.

[Black96SVT]

is there anyway other way I can check to see if its getting power

[Nate]

Get yourself a circuit tester from wal-mart or some place similar. Have you ever used one of these before?
http://www.gowesty.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/GVW-13423.jpg

They're very simple..the clamp is grounded, and the pointed end is used on the hot wire. If it's a complete circuit, then you'll get a light letting you know it's complete. These are very useful for finding problems. Just start from your 12v source, and work your way around.

[Black96SVT]

For the wires tho there is no exposed ..copper wire, its all wrapped up, so i would have to unwrap it then right? could I hook it to the switches too to see if the power is even reaching the switches

[krazy4]

im not sure hopefully someone else will respond quickly

[RadRacer]

For the wires tho there is no exposed ..copper wire, its all wrapped up, so i would have to unwrap it then right? could I hook it to the switches too to see if the power is even reaching the switches


First off, you should't just take some wire and shove it onto your battery terminal man. Put some crimp on ends and then screw it down, just like the main battery wire. Another thing, check your ground. Paint and crap won't give you a good connection, and that could be the whole problem. Where you grounded it, take some sand paper and sand it down abit, then put the ground wire back on.

You could hook the tester to the switches. Just, put it on the leads for the switch. If it glows, the solenoids should also be clicking, since you just bypassed that switch. Try doing this to your arming switch, then push your WOT switch and see if anything happens (it should still glow if you don't push the WOT as long as you have the tester grounded, but you solenoids won't click)

im not sure hopefully someone else will respond quickly

Fast enough? Or should I start typing faster :D

[krazy4]

type faster damnit
no just kidding fast response though :D

[RadRacer]

type faster damnit
no just kidding fast response though :D

Kinda feels weird to me.....I'm new to the forum, yet I'm giving advice.

Black96SVT, what I said should be right, but if any of it seems weird to you, get an opinion from someone else. Like I said, I'm new to all this, but I've got experience in electrical, so that should be right.

[Black96SVT]

First off, you should't just take some wire and shove it onto your battery terminal man. Put some crimp on ends and then screw it down, just like the main battery wire. Another thing, check your ground. Paint and crap won't give you a good connection, and that could be the whole problem. Where you grounded it, take some sand paper and sand it down abit, then put the ground wire back on.
Do you have any pics of the crimps?? I have the grounds connected to where the strut tower braces used to be.. so the holes for the screws i put in washer.. then the wire, and then the bolt head over it.. the washer is touching paint though.. could that be troublesome?

[RadRacer]

Do you have any pics of the crimps?? I have the grounds connected to where the strut tower braces used to be.. so the holes for the screws i put in washer.. then the wire, and then the bolt head over it.. the washer is touching paint though.. could that be troublesome?

Here's a pic from google:

http://www.fabian.com.mt/PAGESgifs/crimpl_64.jpg


Use the one in the bottomr right corner. Then just stick the screw through that, and screw it onto the battery terminal. As for the washer thing. Take it all off. I don't have a strut tower brace, and am not sure right now how the whole look, but just take some sand paper to it and sand till you see shiny metal. Then put the wire (preferably with the crimp on it), then a washer, than the bolt head. The washer's not really needed if you put the crimp on, but it's better safe then sorry. I'd also put a lock washer on the nut side, so it doesn't wiggle lose. That should be a good ground then.

[Black96SVT]

Alright thanks a lot! I wont be able to do it until tuesday.. working tomorrow.. so I will let everyone know how it goes

oh and you said the bolt for the battery terminal.. you mean the bolt to tighten the clamp? bc those loops dont fit over the ... "stub" (cant think of the word) on the battery

[RadRacer]

Alright thanks a lot! I wont be able to do it until tuesday.. working tomorrow.. so I will let everyone know how it goes

oh and you said the bolt for the battery terminal.. you mean the bolt to tighten the clamp? bc those loops dont fit over the ... "stub" (cant think of the word) on the battery

O, you have the pole terminals. Some of them have the terminals set back in the battery, and then you screw a screw into it with all the wires hooked to it into the terminal. For yours, I would try and splice into the actual battery wire. The way you did it would work, but it has a possibility of coming lose, and then you can blow fuses and all that junk. You could try the crimp ends and put them onto the bolt you're talking about, but most of them that I have seen have stray wires sticking from the clamp with connectors (like the yellow one in the 2nd row) on them. That way, you can hook some other stuff up by just sliding the wire into the connector and crimping them together. If there's no wires, you can take the clamp off, so you can set another wire in there along with the main + cable. Most of the time, it's just two screws holding it together. Take them off/losen them and you should be able to get your other wire under there. Then tighten it back down, and it should squeeze it all togethere, making it so the wire won't come out.

[SadisticMystic]

You used a relay right? Buy a $4.00 lighted arming switch and hook that bad boy up, flip it and it will light up if your completing the circuit. If it lights up my guess is that you wired something wrong. Look at the diagrams again and make sure that you have the arming switch wired up correctly to the WOT switch, and the WOT switch wired up correctly to your relay. Then check to see if you have good grounds.

Oh, and if you have a fuel pressure safety switch wired in you have to complete the circuit between the positive and negative on it (bridge a piece of wire across them) because the system will not activate during testing because your car is not on and therefore no fuel pressure.............

If none of these work check and make sure your WOT switch is being depressed fully when you put the pedal down.

I'm probably forgetting a couple other things, hope you get it figured out!

[Steve-UK]

What kit are you fitting?

[newbie]

hook up your wot switch with your nos disconected take a test light hook up the wot switch arm it and hold the test light to the wire that is to the switch press the botten if it lights upo your good carefull with the wot switch you can blow it if you are fuel injected look in to a tps unit they are a lot better mine cost me 100 buck runs off the throttle position sensor and it is program able good luck any questions ask i can help you out

[Black96SVT]

What kit are you fitting?
a NX EFI Kit

and thanks for all the help everyone! My friend is coming over tomorrow to help me out with the wires so Ill let you all know what goes down

[Black96SVT]

So after playing with the wires for an hour and a half I found my problem.. the white wire on the relay didnt have a good ground so I regrounded it and then the green wire on the relay was messed up and only touching the nitrous solenoid so after fixing it the fuel and nitrous solenoid now work :D

now to fix the bottle heater and get the purge done

[Nate]

Great to hear man keep us updated and let us know when everything is a success.

[RadRacer]

Nice man, Nice. Hurry up and finish and show us some numbers!!

[SadisticMystic]

Glad you got it figured out, nummmmmmmmmbers or times!

[n20_kid]

yes you must sand all the ground points, that way you asure a good ground point.. i actually sanded a spot once and it still didnt have a good ground, so i went back and scuffed a few more times and walla, it worked..

[nxcoupe]

Buying a cheap crimping tool with some solderless terminals at wally world is well worth the investment. I have fixed a lot of customer's cars with twisted wire connections and even speaker wire running for power(it is 22 ga). Hope you get it figured out and remember not to activate it at too low of an rpm since I am assuming you don't have a window switch on the system.

[The Racer's Edge]

Good clean connections will ensure proper operation, grounding at the strurt tower isn't really good i always run a ground lead and power lead from the battery, you can't go wrong there! As for the rest of the system did you follow the instructions in the kit for the wiring?? Did you use a realy??
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/stage1.pdf
click this link it will help with the wiring, scroll down to "wiring schematic" for a diagram on the wiring for the system.
www.ShopTheRacersEdge.com
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